Hi there, it’s me again with a slightly late edition of Android user weekly…. i need to think of a more catchy name.
This week, as I’ve not done anything worth talking about, i thought I’d share a few simple repairs with you.
As some of you may know, by day, i am a cellular telecommunications technician, or in short, i fix phones. In my four and a half years fixing phones, I’ve come across some absolutely hilarious repairs, ranging from “my horse almost ate it” all the way to “i dropped it from an oil rig, my dive team took 4 hours to find it”. One thing that has remained constant is phones that have been dropped in the toilet…. the toilet is always clean! This begs the question… Do people take toilet breaks just to tweet? or are phones dropped in the toilet AFTER its been flushed? i don’t know! One thing i do know, is some repair companies, especially manufacturers when your phone is out of warranty, charge way too much. So, here’s a few very simple quite common repairs you can do at home for a fraction of the cost and with very little experience. Obviously doing any kind of repair on your phone will invalidate any warranty you have remaining, so its probably a good idea to check first.
Samsung Galaxy SII i9100 Charging port
Charging ports are not indestructible. They break, and sometimes they break very easily. If you find yourself having to hold your charger in a certain position to charge your phone, chances are you’ve damaged the port. Here’s a very quick guide to replace your port on the galaxy SII i9100.
You will need:
- A replacement charging port flex cable (usually less than £10 on eBay)
- A 1.5mm Philips head screwdriver
- A case opener tool (I use my fingernails, ladies you may want to look away)
First of all, remove the 7 screws from the rear of the phone. There are no hidden screws or anything to watch our for, so just go ahead and take them out.
Next you will need to remove the rear cover. Using a case opener tool, begin to separate the front bezel from the rear housing. It’s usually best to start near the power button and work your way down as there are no hidden cables to worry about. Starting below the volume buttons would mean you have to watch our for the charging flex, and the flex that controls the front hardware buttons.
Once you’ve got the side and bottom lose, the rest should fall apart quite easily, so just take it off. You should now see the following.
Working clockwise from the top, remove the earpiece flex, front camera, LCD screen, front buttons, charging port and antenna cable. Use your case opener tool to lift them from the board being careful not to pull too hard so you don’t damage the connector on the mainboard.
There’s 2 black screws to remove from the mainboard near the camera and the charging port flex. Simply take them out, then you should be able to lift out the mainboard without too much trouble. Please be careful when removing the board as some of the flex cables can still tear if you go too fast.
You can now remove the 2 silver screws holding the charging port in place. You can also now remove the whole block, but be careful as the flex is held in place with double sided tape and can be quite hard to remove. Take your time and gently pull it off the flex below.
So far so good, you can now fit the new part. What i recommend you do is fit the new part, then before fitting the rear casing simply test the phone. Make sure to test the microphone as the part you replaced contains the mic for calls. If that doesn’t work its a little useless as a phone.
Once all checks are complete, simply replace the rear cover and screw back into place. Please try to be careful when removing and replacing the rear cover, as the power and volume buttons can quite easily fall out of the phone and are an absolute pain if you can’t find them.
So there you have it, a very easy repair costing roughly 25 quid less than a repair centre.
Samsung Galaxy Ace S5830 digitizer replacement
Now this one is very easy to do, but as with all repairs, not without risk. Go to fast and you could break the LCD display.
You will need:
- 1.5mm Philips screwdriver
- Case opener tool (again, I’m using my nails)
- Replacement digitizer
- Blunt knife or thin metal blade
- Hot air blower (a good hairdryer will do, but try not to use one)
This time, instead of all the connections being on the top, there’s one underneath too.
Unclip the top connection, and remove the mic at the bottom from its setting. Lift the mainboard from the right, and open like a book to the left. You will see the LCD connection on the underside of the board. Unclip this connector and remove the board from the phone.
Here’s where it gets risky. On the back of the LCD is a small clip. Lift the bottom of the clip and remove the flex cable.
Now, heat the front of the screen at the bottom for a short while, making sure not to overheat as there’s a delicate LCD display below the glass. Once you think it’s hot enough, slide your blunt knife into the bottom between the glass and chassis of the screen. Don’t go too far in as you may cause damage to the LCD screen. The main objective here is to losen the adhesive.
On a slight angle pointing AWAY from the LCD display, slowly work you way up the edges of the screen, using more heat if required. It’s recommended to use heat when you’re at the top too, just to make removal easier. One you can freely move the glass around, pull it off. Be careful not to put any marks on the LCD display, as cleaning them is a pain and usually does more damage than good.
Replacement digitizers for the galaxy ace usually have the required adhesive already applied and protected by a plastic sheet. Leave that on for now, we need to make sure the screen works before you peel it off and make the repair permanent.
Thread the flex cable of the digitizer through the hole in the upper right corner of the screen chassis and press into place.
Flip the screen over and push the flex into the connector on the back. Reconnect the motherboard and hold the battery onto the phone while you boot it up and test your screen. For best results, enter the Samsung service code to test the screen fully. The service code is *#0*#.
If you’re happy with the results, remove the motherboard again, and unclip the screen. Undo the clip holding the digitizer flex and remove it. You can now remove the protective film exposing the adhesive tape and then put the screen back on just like you did before. Now simply put the phone back together, making sure to push the mic back into its slot or you may trap it while fitting the rear cover.
so there you have it. Two simple(ish) repairs done for a fraction of the cost.
Next week, or later this week, I’ll be covering my transition from phone only, to tablet.
See you later!